Gad Kaplan's Wine Wisdom

Much fuss is made of our Sauvignon Blancs in this country but we often forget that South Africa produces excellent Chardonnay in various regions from Stellenbosch to Elgin to Hermanus. These are my candidates for SA’s top six Chardonnays.

Number one: Hamilton Russell in Hermanus or rather the Hemel and Aarde Valley. Pioneers in cool climate Chardonnay in South Africa their first bottling was in 1981. Owner Anthony Hamilton Russell’s father Tim came in search of cooler conditions. They ended up in specializing in the Burgundy varieties of pinot noir and chardonnay. A vertical tasting of all their wine’s produced since 1981 (at which I was present showed their Chardonnay to be superior.)
Consistently South Africa’s finest Chardonnay it is characterized by fatness, elegance, nutty qualities, citrus, power and a longevity of 10- 15 years. My favourite vintages being the 1995, 2001 (perhaps the finest), 2005, 2006 and the opulent 2008 with the 09 showing promise. A consistent 5 star performer in Platter wine guide it is undoubted number one.

Number two: Rustenberg Five Soldiers. Named after a single vineyard (guarded by 5 pine trees) coming from Rustenberg one of South Africa’s pre-eminent estates for reds and whites Five Soldiers is very expensive but tops. It had at one time a citrus characteristic combined with power and elegance but now showing an almost desert wine richness and concentration. Platter gave the 2008 5 stars saying that the 2008 chard clears bars set by concentrated 07: citrus zest, apple blossom, lime and nut oil; sophisticated fruit core perfectly harmonized with well judged oak (15 mths, 70% new. Will worth its R300 plus price tag.

Number three: Jordan Nine Yards Chardonnay and CWG Auction Reserve Chardonnay. Characterized by extreme fatness, richness, elegance and power the latest CWG offering is superb. If you want a big, bold Chardonnay but with great softness then drink Jordan Nine Yards. Platter describes the 09 as Powerful, full bodied with tons of fruit and balancing fresh acidity. Finely interwoven, 95% new French oak adds vanilla, hazelnut touch.