Nederburg long time large producer in Paarl with a name synonymous with quality and high volumes established far back in 1792 with a first bottling ca 1940 has long been in a major player in the South African wine industry. Now reaping endless accolades such as the Platter Winery of the Year in 2011 and numerous Platter 5 stars a recent tasting I undertook revealed their potential to produce high quality, individualistic wines.
Long known for their Edelrood (Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot) a value wine in John Platter and their Baronne (Cabernet Sauvignon- Shiraz) in the Aussie mold also a Platter value wine their desert wines have long reaped numerous accolades particularly their Edelkeur and Noble Late Harvest, also a five star Platter wine.
So off I went to Nederburg to taste some of their niche, most avant-garde offerings full of excitement and interest. The private tasting was hosted by head red winemaker Wilhelm Pienaar (an affable, friendly and modest host). I learnt a lot from him. He explained to me that Nederburg has 5 winemakers. Not surprising for such a large concern.
We tasted a flight of 11 wines and each was flawless. Starting with The Young Airhawk Sauvignon Blanc 2012. A wooded Sauvignon Blanc. Medium straw with green tinges. Floral notes with minerality on the nose. A creamy buttery palate with acidity in the background. A complex wine with orange peel and beeswax. A beautiful nose and very different showing how successful wooded Sauvignon Blanc can be in South Africa lending a different identity to this variety.
The Anchorman Chenin Blanc 2012. Mixed fermentation, 30% oak old oak. Off gold with the nose shy, brooding and creamy. Rich, creamy palate. Good follow on from nose to palate.
The Ingenuity White Blend 2011. A white blend with numerous accolades including many 5 stars in Platter. Pale straw with green tinges. A fusion of 8 varieties. A very perfumed nose, complex, caramel, almost desert like for a dry wine. Palate tight, good length but still closed.
The Motorcycle Marvel Rhone Blend 2010. A blend of red Rhone varieties. Even garnet with spice, red fruits, cassis on the nose. Brooding, beautiful, delicious palate. Creamy with soft tannins. A fine example of what Rhone varieties can do in South Africa.
The Brew Master Bordeaux Blend 2009. This Bordeaux Blend is deep garnet with typical black currents, prunes and hints of sweet liquorish on the nose. Well rounded and classical.
The Ingenuity Red Blend 2010. A blend of 3 Italian varieties. Deep garnet. A powerful nose with cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. A well rounded palate with dry tannins. Showing what Italian varieties can do in SA. A fine wine.
The Beautiful Lady
The Beautiful Lady Gewürztraminer 2012. Off dry. Pale straw with a lovely nose of litchis and a lovely, sweet rounded palate. Not too sweet with good balance. Not a variety much planted in SA anymore, I really liked the off dry style making it more accessible and a good food wine particularly with Asian food.
Now onto my favourite category, the sweet wines. South Africa produces some fabulous sweet wines (much underrated) and Nederburg is no exception in that regard. Their Edelkeur was the first noble rot wine produced in South Africa and I still have in my cellar a prized bottle of the 1975 Edelkeur, their maiden vintage at the Nederburg Auction.
The Winemaster’s Reserve Special Late Harvest 2012 made from Chenin is bright gold. No botrytis it shows dry guava on the nose with an incredible palate. Rich, with apricots it is nevertheless not cloying but fresh.
The Winemaster’s Reserve Noble Late Harvest 2012 proved my favourite of the desert offerings and Wilhelm Pienaar’s as well. Gold with green tinges, Chenin based. Creaminess on the palate, apricots, very sweet with raisons. It really hits you when you taste it and I could not help gulping down the entire glass!
The Private Bin Eminence 2011 from Muscat de Frontigan grapes. Deep gold with a light floral nose. Rose petals, litchis. Spice on the palate. Rich, yet light in texture.
Finally, the Private Bin Edelkeur 2011. Deep gold with apricots (from the botrytis) dried figs and guava. Tremendous richness with very perfumed nose. Palate very rich yet elegant and light on the palate nevertheless.
After this remarkable and informative tasting Wilhelm and I had lunch at The Red Table, an excellent restaurant venue at Nederburg. We had primarily a meat meal so Wilhelm suggested The Motorcycle Marvel Rhone Blend 2010. It went very well with the meal and was easy to drink but still a serious wine. Wilhelm pointed out that all their wines were designed to be food wines and go well with food. But I must state that the power of the desert wines with their incredible sweetness, not cloying however, nor lacking in balance can be enjoyed entirely on their own or with the correct food combinations.
There is much I can say regarding the positives stemming from this tasting. But the three key words remain versatility, individuality and the power of the sweet wines. Another key word is innovation. So often large producers such as Nederburg are painted with the unfair brush that they produce largely commercial wines without character. This is incorrect although it stems from their being known for their easy drinking commercial wines.
But large producers, if they wish, possess the resources to be innovative and produce wines of a high standard. Top end wines they can source their fruit from many sources and this often results in wines of quality and ingenuity.
Looking back at the tasting it only consisted of 11 wines. But the richness and power of some of the wines made it feel like much more. Some comments to end off. I found innovation and ingenuity in all the wines tasted. But some need special mention.
The Young Airhawk 2012 showed the value of a wooded Sauvignon Blanc. It adds an extra body and creaminess to the variety.
The Anchorman Chenin Blanc 2012 showed the value of Chenin in South Africa with a richer, creamier style.
The Ingenuity White Blend 2011 demonstrated the value of complex blending here with a fusion of 8 varieties.
The Motorcycle Marvel
The Motor Cycle Marvel Rhone Blend 2010 expressed the potential of Rhone varieties in South Africa when handled correctly. The same can be said for the Ingenuity Red Blend 2010 and the exciting use of Italian varieties in a blend.
The Beautiful Lady Gewürztraminer 2012 was special because it is a delicious Alsace variety not often made in South Africa. Its off dry character softens the wine making it more accessible on the palate.
Finally, all four desert wines highly impressed. Their richness, intensity on the palate and array of complex flavours all being in balance and never cloying. All in all a wonderful array of wines and memorable tasting.
