Popping into Hamilton Russell in the Hemel–en-Aarde Valley for an impromptu tasting I bumped into a visitor who described his love for Pinot Noir as a “heroin habit.” Pinot Noir the beloved grape of Burgundy (sometimes extraordinarily expensive) seems to have found its place in South Africa although in small quantities.
Pinot Noir is famous for being a fickle variety difficult to grow and produce. The key words seem to be a cool climate and plenty of care in its production. The pioneers for Pinot Noir production in South Africa were Hamilton Russell. Anthony Hamilton Russell the current owner explained to me that his father Tim was simply looking for a cooler climate to make wine. They later discovered that that Chardonnay and Pinot Noir where the two best varieties for the farm especially when grown in clay soil. At my first tasting with Anthony he explained to me that that their Pinot Noir was made with the incorrect clones. Once they got hold of the correct material the true character of Hamilton Russell began to express itself. Quite darkly coloured with black cherries on the palate and redolent fragrant strawberry notes on the nose the Hamilton Russell Pinot drinks beautifully young but can age at least ten years. If possible give it the chance to drink it at ten years.
Very near by the neighboring property is Bouchard Finlayson. Former winemaker at Hamilton Russell Peter Finlayson makes a perhaps more powerful example of Pinot Noir. Highly exclaimed his Galpin Peak Pinor Noir is a dense, powerful, slow maturing example of SA Pinot Noir. It still retains the red fruit and strawberries characteristic of the variety. His Tete de Cuvee Galpin Peak Pinot Noir is more massive and voluptuous yet remaining refined. Bouchard Finlayson continues to produce some of South Africa’s leading and finest Pinot Noir.
To discover more exciting SA Pinot Noir we have to turn to Elgin. Reputed to be even cooler than the Hemel-en-Aarde with high altitudes and cool night time temperatures. Elgin boasts a number of fine Pinot Noir producers and offers some exciting prospects and examples. One of these comes from Paul Cluver a producer offering a large range of elegant, refined and aromatic wines both reds and whites. Their premium Seven Flags Pinot Noir is a powerhouse Pinot demanding patience. It is intense with the typical Burgundy barnyard and sour cherry characters. It needs time but it is interesting that in my view like many of the Elgin Pinots and other reds it often drinks more easily than some of the acidic Elgin whites due to the sensuous nature of the Elgin reds.
Another Elgin star on the horizon is Shannon known more widely for its splendid almost cult like Merlot Mount Bullet. In fact, Shannon also boasts a beautiful, accessible Pinot Noir with dark fruits and silkily mouth feel. It is a Pinot Noir that can be enjoyed young and yet will age well. The same thing can be said of the Mount Bullet.
Another Elgin Pinot favourite of mine is the Oak Valley Pinot with its soft tannins, black cherries and forest floors and underlining and not so obvious power. It represents another jewel in the crown of Elgin. Elgin has so much to offer besides its Pinots but they add a rich layer to the vast range of wines that Elgin has to offer.
Moving into warmer areas another Pinot worth mentioning is the Cape Chamonix Pinot Noir Reserve. Fruit driven perhaps but intense and understated with great ageing potential. Proving that elegance and class can be achieved with Pinot not only in the cooler areas.
As an overview SA Pinot represents a niche but important market for SA wine. We might never produce Pinot in large volumes such as in Burgundy or in the New World king of Pinot, New Zealand. But we can produce Pinot of fine quality. And as long as we continue to do so Pinot Noir will continue to play an important if small part in the South African wine scene. That is the beauty of South African wine. Its diversity and that amongst the ocean of the larger produced cultivars and blends the smaller niche gems such as Pinot Noir continue to shine.
