Gad Kaplan's Wine Wisdom

Elgin used to be known for its apples but today it’s being known more and more for its wines. With its cool conditions (one of SA’s coolest) and high altitude, 200 to 250 meters it produces exciting aromatic whites and elegant reds. In particular Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Noir. It boasts wines that are aromatic, elegant and refined. The whites in particular are long lived with their high acidity stemming from Elgin’s cool climate and they are consistent in quality, the average standard of the wines being high. One can also visit the various producers within a small radius making Elgin very consumer friendly. All this makes Eglin a very exciting and attractive wine area.

It is impossible to deal with all the producers in Elgin as there are so many but the Spring Wine Festival (a showcase of 100% Elgin Wines) way back in October 2011 was a useful reference bearing in mind that we tend to drink SA wines too young including Elgin wines. And also my long term exposure to the wines of this region.

Starting off with Catherine Marshall a long time Pinot Noir lover her Pinot Noir 2010 is delicate, fragrant but also firm promising at least 15 years maturation potential. Her Sauvignon Blanc 2011 showed high acidity and understated power. This wine could age 20 years plus.

Onto to Iona. My favourite Elgin Sauvignon Blanc and of high repute. Benchmark Sauvignon Blanc from their first bottling in 2001. Complex, grapefruit and lime combined with flinty Elgin minerality. Drinks well young but also built for the long hall. Starts to peak at ten years. A real Elgin Sauvignon Blanc classic. I have a case of their older Sauvignon Blancs purchased from the farm but I have not opened them yet.

Elgin Vintners with a first bottling in 2004 has six farms providing their grapes and they make a large range of wines both whites and reds. I really like their Sauvignon Blanc. It is easy drinking with lovely citrus aromas and very accessible.

Oak Valley with their first bottling in 2003 make a fine make range of wines all highly rated in John Platter. My favourites being their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Their Pinot Noir in particular being a stunner. It is polished; I found it to be quite powerful, with soft tannins. On the palate it shows the typical Burgundy dark cherries and forest floors. Complex, a classy wine.

Paul Cluver make a large range of high quality wines. Their Riesling has a high acidity with slightly sweet end notes. Their Gewurztraminer is very popular. The wine of Alsace, France this wine displays the typical Turkish delight perfumed aromas that Gewurztraminer is famous for. Their Seven Flags Pinot Noir is a real powerhouse, a powerful Pinot Noir and their premium Pinot. The Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest is a long time favourite of mine and a fine desert wine. In short Paul Cluver make quality wines and some cultivars often not produced in South Africa.

Shannon makes a fine, sumptuous Merlot called Mount Bullet. The 2008 is full bodied, rich and sensual. It has structure and yet is very accessible with a lovely bouquet. The 2009 is tighter and will take longer to develop. Their Rockview Ridge Pinot Noir is silky and perfumed. An enticing wine. Shannon has the potential to be a star producer in the making.

South Hill makes a fine Sauvignon Blanc. Pungent and nettley but with a spine of steel. Spioenkop with a first bottling in 2008 really impressed me with their Riesling. Austere but fragrant I was amazed at how good it was. A wine worth seeking out.

Finally, Sutherland Vineyards owned by Thelema have ventured from Stellenbosch to Elgin. They make a wonderful Viognier/Roussane blend a Rhone wine offering with a lovely aromatic palate and follow on to the nose.

In conclusion, Elgin offers a lot. It is still a reasonably young wine region but in a short time it has managed to offer wines of a high quality. The wines are also reasonably well priced. They are wines of elegance, fragrance, style and well balanced acidity. It is also a beautiful area with lovely gardens that are sometimes open to the public.